Wednesday, December 12, 2012

BLUE-streak aristocratic ARCHITECTS


ALTUZARRA

designer: Joseph Altuzarra
Inspired by: The 1992 film "Orlando"
Why This Designer?
I was interested to explore his collection upclose because he was an emerging designer, off to trying new things not worrying to what the rest (fellow designers) were doing but sort of carrying out his own distinctive look which he expressed well enough with his Spring/Summer 2013 collection.

a glance at the Altuzarra woman!
 Colors: The mature collection hyped up the catwalk with rich shimmering golds, tinted-blue skies blues, flamed mustards in darker tones and more natural mustards as well, poison-evil greens and classic neutrals.
Silhouettes: One thing was clear, Joseph embodied first-class working separates that carried a chic and sophisticated personality.The sleek over the waist pencil skirts were paired with button down collared shirts that was left open. It was a treat to see his creation of a lavishing evening dress draped and embellished with gold fringing.The halter dresses that also gathered with gold fringe. The transitioned separates like the high collared capes and fitted blazers easily transformed from day to night. The silhouette was definetly very sculptured, cropped to perfection and fitted to the body.
Fabric: Joseph compiled his most elegant and empowering looks with utilirarian fabrics that added charismatic feel to the work wear pieces. Denim-like cotton and railroad stripes carried out the focus of the collection on the catwalk. Silk pants flourished with Japanese and animal inspired prints also seen on the attached scarves that draped with color. Khaki cotton jackets with emphasized peplums and the scarf like dresses decorated with scalloped embroidery were very sheer and rich.The fabrics were wearable held a tight but elegant hour glass feel.
Likes: I personally loved the brown leather-knee gladiator heels, the confidents of the entire collection as it transitioned from day to night in fascinating 'open-arm-vents' outwears. I also enjoyed the sleek work-wear looks giving women of all ages the chance to challenge life while looking hot and classic.
Who is the Altuzarra woman? She is empowering, confident, luxurious and sophisticated.
Image: http://style-skin.com/2012/09/11/hypnotherapy-by-mark-jacobs-ss-2013/altuzarra-ss-2013/


BALMAIN..BALMAIN..BALMAIN..BALMAIN..BALMAIN

designer: Oliver Rousteing
Inspired by: Latin theme that reached out to Cuba's black and white wicker chairs and was influenced by the 80's.
Why This Designer?Plainly because the woven knitwear was intriqueing to watch on the runway show. Oliver's craftmanship seem fascinating and over the top which i like.


THE 80's inspired hoops on black and white diamond designs!
  Colors: The colors reigned from pastels to sandy-tan with tinted blues, playful yellows, sparkling blacks and tainted whites. The vivid checkered-boxes and bold vertical and horizontal lines intertwined with light color combination.
Silhouette: There was definetly that glamorous late 80's to early 90's feel on the runway when the wicker supersized jackets stepped out. Then it kept coming. The trousersuits awakened the past decades accompanied by peg-leg and high waisted trousers with cropped tops and low cut jumpsuits. Perhaps the exaggeration on the shoulders paired with mini skirts, pull-overs and skinny trousers was the focus of the collection.
Fabrics: There was the woven knitwear that mimic basket weaves. The diamond prints and beetlejuice stripes layered atop the fabric. Leather was arranged throughout the collection in cropped tops, high waisted trousers and supersizes smoking jackets. There were also textiled leather on some jackets.Another fabric was the sky-blue denim seen on matching pant and oversized shirts with bustier tops. There was also vertical and harlequin prints and paisley designs on some of the fabrics. The fabrics were very structured and sleek.
Likes: I liked the details on the knitwear mini dresses,very intricate and fine. The 80's feel was also something that stood out to me with Balmain. But especially their major shoulder pieces in denim and leather.
Who is the Balmain woman? She is edgy, full of surprises and adores fine details. She is a mixture of youthful and modest.
Image: http://thestyleschedule.blogspot.com/2012/11/in-schedule_16.html


MISSONImissoni!!

Inspired by: Angela wanted to go back to the roots so she found her reference point from a mid-sixties white suit featured in the French Elle Magazine.
designer: Angela Missoni
Why This Designer?I thought she was a relateable person; someone I can trust to make beautiful clothing because she thinks of everything that surrounds a woman's life. I like that she has humor and is honest with who she is as a person and as a designer.

knitted-catwalk
 Colors: She starts the show with pure whites that slowly fades with rose-pedal pinks, moss green, neutral shades and just very delicate brights. A group of glossy blacks were the exits for the Missoni show. The colors were very transparent and illusive.
Silhouettes: It was definetly the "cosmic girl full of life" as Angela Missoni had described it. The A-line shaped maxi and mini dresses layered with different colors and fabrics.It essentuated certain looks like the two piece swimwears veiled with a sheer mini dress to brighten the colors from inside. Very high quality tailoring of sheer layered soft organza.The silhouette is light structured for easy flowing effects, suggestive appeals yet still proper.
Fabrics: Missoni is known for its knits. Therefore in the SS2013 collection, knitted fabrics twisted into unusual patterns and repeatedly for the ethereal effect was a must-have. Fabrics were weaved with stylish color shading and embellishments to bring out the futuristic vibe.Pieces of sheered sequins draped from floor-covering gowns.The fabrics were loose and free.
Likes: I liked everything about the collection from bright matte pink lips and pressed-down hair-do to the aura of colors on layered dresses and the crystal chokers and bracelets shaded in colors.
Who is the Missoni woman? She is contemporary, stylish with an edge for avant garde and colorful.She also fresh and undenyably youthful.
Image: http://www.made-in-italy.com/italian-fashion/news/milan-spring-summer-2013-collections-wrapup

GUCCI   gucci  GUCCI  gucci  GUCCI  gucci  GUCCI

designer: Frida Gianini
Inspired by: Photograph by Richard Avedon
Why This Designer?I like Frida because she draws her collections from heritage with upright blend towards the future. She is not afraid to run the crowd with her new innovative ideas and her strength to build her own identity with the Gucci brand is rather appealing to me as a fashion student.

taste the colors!
 Colors: Energetically bold and whimpsical colors of coral, kiwi green, natural mustard, awakening fuchsia, ultramarine deep and light blues, turquoise and cobalt blue.It was also totally white or totally black with outstanding vivid hues.
Silhouettes: There was no doubt that the collection was sleek, sophisticated and essential just as Frida had in mind.The silhouettes were very elongated with classic scooped-cut-outs at the back that gave those individual pieces a daring switch. The bell sleeves and bell bottoms pant suits were delicious in kiwi green and tempted-tones of pinks and blues. There was also the voluminous and short dresses that fell off the shoulder.Two words to describe Gucci's silhouette are long and lean with a modest blueprint.
Fabrics: Frida was mesmerized by the sea which let to the grahic waves of the ocean, the coral-like swirls patterns spread out on the fabric.The solids were eye-catching especially with the wide ruffles that dressed off-the shoulder pieces. Other prints on the fabrics included snake skin patterns and just very luxurious reptilian colored designs.The fabrics were printed and it came in suits, tunics, pants,dresses(short and long) and silky pyjama.
Likes: I very much liked the accessory statements; leather clutches, clustered colorful necklaces and the oversized sunglasses. I also liked the detailed ruffles that gave the collection movement and life.
Who is the Gucci Woman? She has a flair for fashion; unafraid to try new styles and is well reserved. A woman of impeccable taste of colors with a  fearless characteristics.
Image: http://www.athenna.com/gucci-ss-2013-2/athenna/web_design/teoria-de-design/


KENZO

KENZO

designers: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon
Inspired by: Jungles of Thailand with a trip down Kenzo's memory lane to Takada's first show in Paris during the 1970's.
Why These  Designer?Its's simple really, I like their SS2013 collection. What I also thought was a great touch is how they managed to manufacture and facility new ideas but yet still vert true to its Kenzo DNA.

close-up on the gilt-snake chokers!
 Colors:The icicle-blue shades that popped with glamour reds and  splashes of sweet-pinks, green-ivy, dark navy(dark rich tones),crayola orange, youthful yellows and deep mustard tones bundledly  brought out the fear and vivacious Jungle motif.The colors sure did roared on the catwalk.
Fabrics: The fabrics were true to its colors, offerring a vibrant and playful feel.As seen on the collection a tiger print well displayed and hidden behind smothering combination of artistic shapes and smudges. Cotton smeared with hints of tropical florals and dynamic-mixed impressions of dots and leaves.Also present were polyester-like fabrics that were tightly squeezed in working belts look-alikes. The fabrics appeared to flow freely and tailored to perfection.
Silhouettes: The ready to play, work, vacation and relax silhouettes came off as street-witty. The safari suits and bustier tops looked radiant and captivating.Again, like many other designers oversized utility jackets made an entrance on the Kenzo keeping up with the rainforest/safari/jungle concept.Dresses cloaked to the floor with jaw-dropping cut outs that lured attention.The wide pants strongly belted was parallel to its high waisted pleated trousers.Trench coats were tightly structured and tailored to fit to body.The Kenzo silhouette is upbeat and young, very enticing.
Likes: I loved the remarkable color prints, the guilt snake chokes and the fun color blocked sandals.I enjoyed the final-glance into a glass like cube that displayed all the looks.It was differnt and eye-pleasing.
Who is the Kenzo woman? She is fun, upbeat and adventurous. And she is also a show-stopper.
Image:
http://www.fashionising.com/runway/b--kenzo-backstage-ss-13-31432.html#6

Friday, November 2, 2012

GUCCI

FRIDA Gianini at the Spring 2013 collection delivered a sensational collaboration of the 'late sixties and early seventies'. This was clearly shown throughout the bright colors embodying the long and classic silhouettes of tunic and trousers. In Addition to her magnifying collection of arrayed colors, were the waving ruffles that draped from the shoulder to the back and at times focused only on the sleeves; long and short. The long straight dresses flowed with an extended slit at the back allowing the dress to bloom on the runway. While visiting Neiman Marcus, we saw a long velvet dress draped to the floor with an identical cut to one of the dresses from the spring2013 collection. Lace was one of the many visual dresses hanging on the floor, one was very detailed and seemed to have emerged with playful colors that weaved through the threads that held the dress together. Wide ruffles on the bottom of black, grey and white dresses was seen there too. It was great to see a resembling collection from what the designer created. Although the colors at the spring collection were loud with hot pink, coral, citrus yellow, cobalt and turquoise. The green dress mentioned above was the only evident of color in what we saw. However, the dresses in the store were still quite beautiful in black and white.


FROM NEIMAN MARCUS AND THE BOTTOM IMAGES ARE FROM THE SPRING2013.

Thursday, November 1, 2012

MARNI

THE embellished crepe dress decorated with colorful crystal that screamed 1960's inspired silhouette was a must see, must touch at the store. The dress was situated rather conveniently to seduce and lure shoppers to stop and fascinate about the piece and its maker. Marni was definitely a hit in Barneys New York and Neiman Marcus. Everything about Marni reflected the Spring 2013 collection, the paisley prints, the window pane checker boxes that spread like fire throughout the fabric and the over sized floral prints that exaggerated the volume of the dresses with an architectural structure yet still very soft to caress the feminine silhouette seen dancing in these dresses. The colors ranged from nudes to pure whites and blacks, mystical blues, reds, hot orange and torquoise.
Marni; found in Barneys New York
Images from the Spring 2013 collection










  •  http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2013/review/marni/slideshow/6322594#/slideshow/article/6322545/6322627

BOTTEGA VENETA


 Bottega Veneta nailed the runway with their 1960's and 1970's theme that went hand in hand with most of their silhouettes, which were feminine and clearly focused in the thirties. The elegant and sophisticated woman that rocked the whimsical floral patterns that was fueled by the colors of soft pinks, blues and reds. The dreamy floral prints cascades beyond the era of its inspiration, allowing the outline of the dresses and separates to project the dignifying woman that wears the pieces. Seeing the actual dresses in Barneys New York was like a tasteful sophistication.

PROENZA SCHOULER

FROM RUNWAY TO RETAIL!!!

Our 'Current Designers' class visited Neiman Marcus on 150 Stockton Street and Barneys New York on 77 O'Farrell Street in San Francisco. The main objective of the field trip was to see how the 'runway' looks have been interpreted in the store floors. It was a great opportunity to feel the actual materials and visually observe the crafty and artistic creations of each featured designers.

Featured Designers: 
Proenza Schouler

COLOR PALETTES: from ocean and electric blue, lime and neon green, flaming red to black and navy.
PRINTS/FABRICS: As seen above and in Barneys New York, the prints mimic the waves of the ocean and shadowed the abstract linings of trees that were boldly sliced with the explosion of gratifying, vivid colors. The fabric consisted of satin,wool and leather; which were by the way dotted-like pixels..It was visible in the store with a close reflection of what was on the Proenza Schouler Spring 2013 runway show.
SILHOUETTES: According to WWD.com the  "...dresses that were fitted around the bodice and shoulders like a wet suit with a skirt that flared to the knee". My interpretation of that silhouette is one that hugs the body yet falls off gracefully from the waist to the knee. In other looks, the silhouette of the boxy-jackets fell loose on the body but structured well on the shoulder adding a bulkiness feel to the clothing.

  • http://www.barneys.com/Women/women,default,sc.html?pagetype=designer&prefn1=designer&prefv1=Proenza%20Schouler

Monday, October 22, 2012

PETER PILOTTO



The innovative duos, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos whipped out prints with embroideries and beadings like no other. They were fearless and content that their silhouettes made a mark. Some agree that it was too busy and overwhelming; handling the complex dynamics of the designs but the duo believed it striking and unique. It delivered exquisite and utterly gratifying 'prints'. The touch of 3-D embroideries on the kimonolike sleeves and printed ruffles showed London that they were full of ideas and could not wait to put it all out there. The execution of the entire show from the catwalk to the designs collaborated as 'wholesome' and 'intriguing'.

get a look-on:
http://www.wwd.com/runway/spring-ready-to-wear-2013/review/peter-pilotto





MARY KATRANTZOU



POSTAGE STAMPS in FASHION?!!!



Whoever thought that postage stamps couldn't walk the runway, well, obviously Mary Katrantzou knew that well enough when she focused her entire collection on it. The prints peeked out of the satin-rushed-fabrics in such sophistication that turned heads. She calls it the "painting in pixels". Mary's prints consisted of exotic shapes such as plants, birds and the combination of patterns and borders on the dresses made it refreshingly fashionable.


the proof: 
http://www.vogue.com/collections/spring-2013-rtw/mary-katrantzou/review/#